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Post by GrassRootsPR on Jun 14, 2008 21:06:07 GMT -5
Since I managed to twist my passenger side upper control arm like a pretzel I have to replace it. Well, when I removed the bent one to install the new one, the new upper control arm is about a 1/4" short of the bolt holes. I obviously have to do a pinion adjustment or something. Anyone have any experience in this department or know a secret to aligning the arm ? This is when I really miss leaf springs.
Thanks
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Post by billdacat on Jun 16, 2008 5:59:08 GMT -5
You need to support the rig under the frame near the lower control arm mounts. Use a bottle jack under the pinion to rotate the axal to align the holes for the control arm.
I have a couple of stock rear upper control arms available if anyone need them.
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Post by GrassRootsPR on Jun 16, 2008 17:59:18 GMT -5
Great, thanks Billdacat ! You've obviously done it before .... appreciate it.
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Post by blackrubi on Jun 17, 2008 6:54:37 GMT -5
I'm had the same problem with getting my lower control arm in...
Lesson learned... Never take both out at the same time.
James, Should we have gotten adjustable uppers so that we could set the pinion angle at with the control arms instead of goofy cam bolts?
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Post by blackrubi on Jun 17, 2008 9:51:09 GMT -5
Talked to Matt at OK. He said front adjustable uppers are not really needed but if you have a rear CV driveshaft on a lifted TJ, they are useful for setting the correct pinion angle.
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Post by billdacat on Jun 17, 2008 19:12:56 GMT -5
Cam bolts are not that great if you wheel your rig; they get knocked out of adjustment very easily. Cam bolts also don’t have the range to set pinion angle on a lifted Jeep with a CV drive shaft. I did a SS-SYE, TT-MML and BB. I adjusted my rear upper control arms about .5” longer then stock to set my pinion angle.
Cam bolts = bad
Adjustable control arms = good
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Post by HamiltonLJ on Jun 17, 2008 20:02:03 GMT -5
If you remove the cam bolts isn't the hole elongated for adjustment? How would you keep the lower arm from sliding in the hole?
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Post by billdacat on Jun 18, 2008 6:36:45 GMT -5
On late model Jeep’s, the stock CA bolts have round centered cams (dummy cam bolts). You can spin these dummy cams all day long and they will not move your control arms. A real cam bolt is fitted with an eccentric or off centered cam.
Current manufacturing techniques produce a frame that is remarkably true, and real cam bolts are really not needed.
If you think about it, the stock control arm is weak and will give out long before anything else gets bent. That characteristic goes out the window with the aftermarket arms; so now we start ripping CA mounts off the axels.
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Post by blackrubi on Jun 18, 2008 6:49:29 GMT -5
enough with the ripping.... I'm very sensitive about my undercarriage at the moment  |
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Post by HamiltonLJ on Jun 18, 2008 13:19:09 GMT -5
A little sensitive Brad spending to much time alone with your JEEP.
So those washer thingies don't do a d**n thing.
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Post by billdacat on Jun 18, 2008 15:47:56 GMT -5
I am seriously considering getting a good stick welder before I pursue lifting my rigs. Shock and control arm mounts are food for rocks.
The rock said “Yum Yum… me want to eat your Jeep”…
;D
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Post by bdhrubi on Jun 18, 2008 19:00:54 GMT -5
Just read this and I had same issue. seams the bracket welded to the axle tube gets bent when the upper distroys its self. They make a HD weld on. I have one but have not installed I just bent the bracket back and adjusted the upper for the ballance. I have a stck upper that you can use to check to see if you have the bracket back in place. let me know
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