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Post by cdlongjr on Jan 16, 2010 17:36:21 GMT -5
When I drove the Wrangler down 495 from Chester, Pa. a couple of weeks ago, she died 3 times before I got to the 12th street bridge. After the bridge, she ran fine. Tonight, she would die every time I got over 50 mph, (about 52 mph @ 2000 rpms). Engine died, but would come back @ 40 mph, go up past 50 mph & die again. I had the same scenario all the way home. I made a right turn onto Red Mill Rd & she died completely. Started right back up & made it home. I have the 4.2 L & the Nutter by pass has been done, B&M auto trans, new Dura spark ignition module, new coil pick up, new coil, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, rebuilt MC 2100 from an Auto parts store,(121 venturi es), new K&N air filter assembly. Oil levels are OK & just filled her with regular gas. Any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks
Someone change me from a Trail Rider to a spectator until I get this thing runnin'!
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Post by cdlongjr on Jan 19, 2010 3:35:21 GMT -5
Drove her last night with a 12v light tied into the coil. When she died, light stayed on, so I'm pretty sure it's not the ignition system. She will run at 3,000 rpms in park with no problem. I'm leaning toward the MC 2100 with 121 ventris. Mainly because the engine completety dies when making hard turns & has to be restarted. Last night when I shut her off she dieseled. Running Shell regular gas & the engine has been power timed.
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Post by cdlongjr on Jan 20, 2010 5:26:09 GMT -5
Last time I looked, the plugs were ok, dark tan. Fuel pump is stock. Float level was good. I'd appreciate borrowing the 1.08, several folks have told me the carb wouldn't cause the problems I'm having, but there must be reasons why the MC 2100 w/ 108s are used. Let me know where you are & if you have any free time, I'll come over, swap the carb & we'll see. Thanks for the offer of thw 108, I gotta get momma 's Wrangler rite, PDQ. She's already losing interest, not to mention my money & time are being taken from my J-10 & there's still lots to be done to the Wrangler.
Last night I put the vacuum gauge on the intake manifold last night before the drive. Vacuum was @ 16", but the pointer was swinging rapidly between 18" & 14". I shut the engine off, screwed the idle screws in & backed them out 2 turns. Started & had to adjust them out 1/4 turn to obtain highest vacuum, 20". Pointer is still swinging rapidly. I drove her & now have a bogging/stalling when I nail it. She wound out to 3k in 1st, (very slow acceleration, about 1/2 as fast as the 5 was), & at 40 mph in 2nd, died. I can pump the accelerator or hold it to the floor & nothing happened until she dropped to 20 mph, then the engine came back in. No dieselling problem when I shut her off.
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Post by YellowRubi on Jan 20, 2010 8:38:35 GMT -5
almost sounds like a failing crank sensor? The 4.2 is basic.. good spark and gas it should go? I had an 89 for 15 years and ran into all sorts of fun issues
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Post by cdlongjr on Jan 21, 2010 4:41:09 GMT -5
I have done the Nutter by pass. Drove her with a multimeter tied into the coil. Never lost power @ the coil.
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Post by cdlongjr on Feb 16, 2010 4:50:54 GMT -5
Had a member of another forum suggest I put a clear fuel filter before the fuel pump. Last night I installed one. Very little fuel coming to the pump. Tonight I'll turn the air compresor pressure down & blow the fuel line from front to rear & blow out the fuel pump, then install a new factory fuel filter & see what happens.
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Post by cdlongjr on Feb 16, 2010 16:51:44 GMT -5
Checked all the fuel system with a blow gun @ 10 psi. No obstructions or debris. Hooked everything back up & still no start. Removed the fuel line into the factory fuel filter & placed it into a liter bottle. Good fuel flow. Hooked it back up, no start. Removed the fuel line from the carb & placed it into the bottle. d**n thing started. Hooked the fuel line back up to the carb & she wouldn't start. Removed the line again & she started again. Hooked it back up & no start. Removed the return fuel line & put a rubber cap over the nipple on the fuel filter. She started & idled better than she ever has. Usually cold, I had to pump the gas pedal to keep her running. Not this time. What's the problem with the return line? Do I just cap the steel return line so she'll pass inspection? (They pressure test the fuel tank).
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Post by cdlongjr on Feb 16, 2010 18:33:36 GMT -5
I wonder if the canister plumbing may be causing my problems:
CTO (As you are facing the driver's side of the engine) I have 2 ports on the left & 3 ports on the right Right side 1st port closest to the engine has no hose to it 2nd port has a line from the vacuum line to the brake booster (has a tee in it) 3rd port goes to number 4 on the canister Left side port closest to the engine goes to the modulator valve on the tranny other port has a line fom the brake booster Canister (from firewall to the radiator #1 to air cleaner base #2 vapor from fuel tank #3 tee with PCV valve #4 to CTO, 3rd port on the right NO vacuum to EGR valve
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Post by cdlongjr on Feb 18, 2010 5:16:45 GMT -5
I swapped the carb with the carb off my 74 J-10 with the 360 CI engine. I was able to correctly plumb all the lines from the canister except the line closest to the firewall. It is supposed to go to the vent on the fuel bowl. My carb doesn't have that vent. I ran the line to the tube on the left rear of the carb, which goes into the air cleaner.
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Post by cdlongjr on Feb 18, 2010 16:44:29 GMT -5
SHE"S ALIVE!!! Drove her 70 mph today. Combo of wrong carb & canister plumbing.
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